巡游有“解”④｜文化針上“舞”：貴州民族刺繡里的生活與山河 When Culture Dances on the Needle: Life and Landscape in Guizhou’s Ethnic Embroidery

作者：王旗潘先萬
來源：當(dāng)代先鋒網(wǎng)
發(fā)布時間：2025-06-21 14:00:50

從平整如畫的壩子到起伏連綿的山川，貴州的自然地貌孕育了各式各樣的生活方式，也造就了風(fēng)格各異的民族刺繡技藝。在2025年“5·19中國旅游日”貴州民族團結(jié)大巡游上，各族群眾身著豐富多彩的民族服飾，便生動展現(xiàn)了多彩貴州的多彩刺繡。

From the flat, picturesque valleys to the rolling mountain ranges, Guizhou’s diverse natural landscapes have given rise to equally diverse ways of life—and with them, a rich variety of ethnic embroidery traditions. During the 2025 “China Tourism Day” Grand Parade for Ethnic Unity in Guizhou, people from various ethnic groups appeared in exquisitely embroidered garments, showcasing the colorful world of Guizhou’s embroidery culture.

破線繡

貴州省旅游商品協(xié)會會長、省政府“貴系列”專家評審委員會首席綜合專家申敏在接受采訪時說，貴州少數(shù)民族不僅“衣美在繡”，更“繡中有藝、藝中有意”，全省已知的刺繡針法超過百種，既是美學(xué)表達，更是生活智慧的沉淀。

Shen Min, President of the Guizhou Provincial Tourism Products Association and Chief Comprehensive Expert of the Guizhou Provincial Government’s “Gui Series” Expert Review Committee, noted in an interview that embroidery in Guizhou is not only about beauty— “beauty in the stitch,” as he put it—but also about artistry and meaning. With more than 100 known stitching techniques across the province, embroidery here is as much a cultural expression as it is a reflection of daily life.

縐繡

“我們平時統(tǒng)稱刺繡，但在民族服裝中，真正講的是針法。”申敏表示，貴州不同地區(qū)的刺繡技藝風(fēng)格鮮明，各具地域特色——黔東南以破線繡、打籽繡、辮繡、縐繡為代表，銅仁多見瓦片繡、平繡、疊繡；黔南、黔西南則盛行挑花、長短針等技法，其中黔南還保留了極具特色的馬尾繡和絨繡；畢節(jié)地區(qū)挑花盛行，風(fēng)格質(zhì)樸。

“We usually just call it embroidery, but in ethnic clothing, it’s really all about the stitching techniques,” Shen explained. Different regions in Guizhou feature distinct embroidery styles: Qiandongnan is known for split-thread embroidery, seed embroidery, braid embroidery, and gathered embroidery; Tongren features tile embroidery, flat embroidery, and layered embroidery; Qiannan and Qianxinan practice various forms of counted-thread embroidery and long-short stitch techniques, with Qiannan also preserving unique traditions like horsehair embroidery and velvet embroidery; In Bijie, counted-thread embroidery is especially popular and known for its simplicity and rustic charm.

挑花

“我們?nèi)〉拇汤C針法加在一起有100多種，接近200種?！鄙昝艚榻B，這些針法不僅造型各異，還承載著各民族的生活記憶與文化觀念。比如馬尾繡，采用白線纏繞馬尾，再圍成圖案，外圍稱為“水線”，內(nèi)部常填以色彩斑斕的辮繡，象征水中之龍。這種工藝多見于水族，龍是其文化核心。

“All together, Guizhou has over 100, nearly 200 stitching techniques,” Shen said. “These stitches not only vary in form but also reflect the collective memory and cultural worldview of each ethnic group.” For instance, horsehair embroidery uses white thread wrapped around strands of horsehair to form outlines known as water threads, which symbolize flowing water. These outlines are filled with colorful braid embroidery representing dragons—central figures in the culture of the Shuizu (Water People).

馬尾繡

而布依族多擅平繡，“因為他們生活在壩子地帶，地勢平坦，服飾講究規(guī)整與內(nèi)斂。”相較而言，皺繡則更常用于表現(xiàn)山川起伏、地形復(fù)雜的地區(qū)。

The Bouyei people, on the other hand, are known for their use of flat embroidery, which Shen explains is a reflection of their environment: “They live in valleys, where the land is flat, and their clothing tends to be orderly and restrained.” In contrast, gathered embroidery is more often used in areas with dramatic terrain to represent mountains and rivers.

平繡

“生活影響生產(chǎn)，文化源于生活，而藝術(shù)正是生活的升華。”申敏表示，貴州民族刺繡正是這一過程的最佳注腳，從地理環(huán)境到圖騰信仰、從技藝傳承到色彩心理，無不體現(xiàn)出中華民族多元文化一體中的貴州表達。

“Life influences production, culture is born from life, and art is the elevation of life itself,” Shen emphasized. “Guizhou’s ethnic embroidery is the perfect example of this process.” From geographical environments to totemic beliefs, from technical traditions to color symbolism, Guizhou’s embroidery embodies the province’s rich contribution to the diverse unity of Chinese culture.